Drive towards Ullapool, then beyond Loch Oscaig turn left up the narrow road sign posted to Lochinver. This is the ‘wee mad road’ and is as beautiful as any in the Highlands. You will pass a succession of small lochs and come back to the sea at Loch an Eisg-Brachaidh. Descending from the next ridge, you come into the valley of the Kirkaig where there is ample parking space beyond the bridge (and a splendid bookshop up a steep drive parallel to the river).
From here, an excellent path sign posted to Suilven heads up the wooded valley, keeping within sight of the river, and rising gently. In about two miles, fork right to the Falls of Kirkaig, which can be seen, well from the edge of the gorge, but it is well worth following the twisting path leading steeply down to their foot. Head back up to the main path and follow the river – now more peaceful – up to the Fionn Loch, taking care not to bear left away from the water. From the head of the loch the view of the southern face of Suilven is magnificent, the sugar loaf western peak of Caisteal Liath, the Grey Castle, drawing the eye. To the southeast rise Cul Mor and Cul Beag with the little known northern side of Stac Pollaidh to the south.
Follow the shore of the Loch to a cover with boat house and a shingle beach and on for a few hundred yards until you reach the mouth of a burn. Make your way up the steep grass beside it until you meet the path to Suilven. Turn left and having crossed a damp little col, soon you will join the outward route. Retrace your steps down the valley by the same path, the view ahead, a culmination in the sea at Loch Kirkaig.
DISTANCE: 7 miles
GOING: Quite easy